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As many people age, they become interested in products that make them look younger. Exfoliants like glycolic acid are a popular choice in skin care. Glycolic acid has a wide range of benefits for the skin, from treating skin conditions like acne to reversing signs of aging.

Learn what glycolic acid does and how you should use it.

What Is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is an organic acid that occurs naturally in sugarcane. It’s part of a family of acids known as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs).

Other AHAs include:

• Citric acid
• Lactic acid
• Malic acid
• Mandelic acid
• Tartaric acid

“There are other types of alpha-hydroxy acids, too, but glycolic is one of the most popular,” says Rebecca Valudes, lead medical aesthetician, UPMC in Central Pa. “It’s been around for a long time, but glycolic acid is a great ingredient.”

You can find glycolic acid in a variety of skin products, including toners, serums, cleansers, peels, and more.

The popularity of glycolic acid and other AHAs is growing. According to Spherical Insights, the global market share of alpha-hydroxy acids is likely to reach $3.2 billion by 2030 — up from $1.2 billion in 2021. AHAs were once only available by prescription but are now available in a wide range of over-the-counter (OTC) products.

What Does Glycolic Acid Do?

Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant. It penetrates the skin barrier — the outermost layer of the skin that protects against outside elements and holds in moisture.

Glycolic acid increases cell turnover by dissolving bonds between skin cells. This causes dead skin cells to fall away. Newer, fresher skin cells then replace them.

“It’s the smallest alpha-hydroxy acid, and because it is a smaller molecular weight, it penetrates quicker and, therefore, works a little faster,” Rebecca says.

Glycolic acid is water-soluble, so it works best on surface-level skin issues.

How Does Glycolic Acid Help Your Skin?

Glycolic acid offers several benefits, such as reducing signs of aging and treating inflammatory skin conditions like acne. The benefits may depend on the type of product you’re using, its concentration of glycolic acid, and your skin type.

For example, a chemical peel typically contains higher concentrations of glycolic acid and thus may prove more effective. However, it can also cause skin sensitivity.

Reducing signs of aging

Glycolic acid’s roles in boosting cell turnover and promoting collagen production help to control signs of skin aging.

Collagen and elastin are two key proteins in the human body that help to keep the skin firm, elastic, and healthy. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body.

Collagen occurs naturally within the body, but its production slows as the body ages. Exposure to ultraviolet light from the sun and tanning beds can also affect collagen. As collagen production decreases, our skin exhibits signs of aging, including wrinkles, fine lines, sagging, and thinning.

Glycolic acid can help stimulate the body’s production of collagen to reduce those signs of aging.

Additionally, glycolic acid’s ability to stimulate cell turnover leads to the removal of dead skin cells. As a result, the skin looks brighter and younger.

Treating acne

Glycolic acid has long been an effective acne treatment. You can combine it with other active ingredients or other physical treatments. Glycolic acid’s exfoliating properties help to unclog pores and remove dead skin cells to reduce and prevent acne.

“It helps to reduce breakouts because it’s a good deep pore-cleansing ingredient,” Rebecca says.

By promoting cell turnover, glycolic acid can also help reduce the appearance of acne scars and improve the skin’s overall texture.

Treating hyperpigmentation

Glycolic acid is also a treatment option for hyperpigmentation, a condition in which darker-looking spots appear on the skin. As an exfoliant, it can help even out a person’s skin tone.

How Should You Use Glycolic Acid?

Use your glycolic acid product according to the instructions. Rebecca recommends easing it into your skin care routine.

“If you’re new to glycolic or alpha-hydroxy acids, then it may be best to use every other night and build up to using it every night so you don’t develop any type of irritation,” she says.

You can use most glycolic acid products at home. However, the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) cautions that you should use all chemical peel products under the supervision of a dermatologist or other licensed provider.

Are There Any Side Effects of Glycolic Acid?

Side effects of glycolic acid include:

• Burning or stinging feeling.
• Dry skin.
• Skin irritation.
• Skin redness.
• Sun sensitivity.

Higher concentrations of glycolic acid are more likely to cause irritation. Rebecca suggests most people should stick to 10% or below for at-home products.

To soothe or prevent skin irritation, Rebecca suggests using a product with niacinamide along with glycolic acid.

Also, because glycolic acid can make you more sensitive to the sun, Rebecca says wearing sunscreen is a must.

“You’re taking that little protective layer off the skin because it’s exfoliated,” she says. “So, you want to be careful in the sun.”

Who Shouldn’t Use Glycolic Acid?

It’s typically OK for people with normal to oily skin to use products with glycolic acid. However, people with drier or sensitive skin should avoid using glycolic acid because it can irritate their skin, Rebecca says.

Glycolic acid also provides benefits to the skin that are similar to those of retinol. So, people who are already using a retinol or other retinoid may not receive added benefits from glycolic acid, Rebecca says.

“(Retinol is) a different ingredient, but it works similarly, and it can be actually even more active,” she says. “Generally, if you’re using a glycolic, you don’t want to sort of double-dip. You don’t need two different super active exfoliating products.”

Finally, people who are using certain prescription acne medications may not benefit from glycolic acid.

It’s best to talk to your dermatologist or another licensed professional about your skin care routine before starting glycolic acid.

What Glycolic Acid Product Is Right for Me?

Glycolic acid and other alpha-hydroxy acids are available in many products. The right product for you depends on your skin type, what you’re using it for, and other products you’re using.

You can find glycolic acid products OTC or at the doctor’s office. Medical-grade products — those available from a doctor, such as a dermatologist — are generally more active, Rebecca says.

Rebecca adds that if you have any questions about glycolic acid products, it’s best to ask a dermatologist, aesthetician, or other licensed professional.