Young Woman Applying Facial Serum in a Modern Bathroom

Navigating the world of skin care can feel overwhelming. With so many chemical names, abbreviations, and treatment options out there, it’s easy to get lost — whether you’re brand new to skincare or already an exfoliation expert.

Maybe you’ve seen some of these terms on social media or heard them mentioned on TV. Either way, we’re here to help simplify things. Below is a quick guide to popular skin care terms — from A(HA) to vitamin C — so you can feel confident about what you’re putting on your skin.

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Common Skin Care Terms

  • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) — Chemical exfoliants that help remove dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. They’re found in many products and are commonly used to treat acne, smooth fine lines, unclog pores, and lighten discoloration. Common AHAs include lactic, glycolic, and citric acids. Since AHAs are water-soluble, they work best on the skin’s surface. Some people may experience irritation, so start slowly if you’re new to them.
  • Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) — A powerful acne-fighting ingredient, BPO comes in creams, gels, and lotions. It treats mild to severe acne by killing bacteria and reducing inflammation
  • Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) — Similar to AHAs, beta hydroxy acids are exfoliants — but they’re oil-soluble, meaning they can penetrate pores more deeply. The most common BHA is salicylic acid. BHAs help unclog pores, smooth texture, and may be gentler on sensitive skin.
  • Chemical peel — A chemical peel is a skin-resurfacing treatment performed on the face, neck, and hands. A chemical solution — often including AHAs or BHAs — is applied to remove the top layer of skin, revealing fresher, younger-looking skin beneath. Peels vary in strength and can target fine lines, sun damage, acne scars, and more.
  • Collagen — Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and a key player in keeping skin firm and youthful. As we age, collagen production decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging. Sun exposure and other lifestyle factors can speed up this process.
  • Dermal fillers — Dermal fillers are injectable treatments that add volume to the face, helping to smooth wrinkles, plump lips, and reduce the appearance of scars or hollow areas.
  • Exfoliation — Exfoliation removes dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. It can be chemical (using ingredients like AHAs or BHAs) or physical (using scrubs or brushes). Regular exfoliation can improve skin tone, texture, and radiance.
  • Glycolic acid — Glycolic acid is a common type of AHA that comes from sugarcane. It helps to remove dead skin cells, reduce fine lines, and improve overall skin clarity.
  • Hyaluronic acid — Naturally found in the body, hyaluronic acid helps retain moisture in the skin. It’s commonly found in serums, moisturizers, and injectable fillers to hydrate and plump the skin.
  • Microdermabrasion — Microdermabrasion is a noninvasive procedure that exfoliates the top layer of skin using a special device. It can help with fine lines, sunspots, and uneven skin tone.
  • Neuromodulators — Injectables such as BOTOX® and Dysport® fall into this category. They work by relaxing facial muscles to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, crow’s feet, and frown lines.
  • Niacinamide — Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that is present in many skin care products. It can help reduce redness, wrinkles, improve skin tone, treat acne, and fade dark spots.
  • Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) — PHAs are gentle chemical exfoliants similar to AHAs, but with larger molecules that penetrate the skin more slowly, making them ideal for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin. Common PHAs include gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. They exfoliate dead skin cells while also attracting moisture to the skin, helping to improve texture, tone, and hydration with less irritation. PHAs also offer antioxidant benefits, making them a great option for those looking to exfoliate without compromising their skin barrier.
  • Retinoids/tretinoin — Derived from vitamin A, retinoids are powerful ingredients that boost cell turnover. They help treat acne, reduce fine lines, improve skin texture, and even out tone. Tretinoin is a prescription-strength version.
  • Serums — Serums are skin care products with high concentrations of active ingredients, such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and more. They’re typically applied before moisturizer and target specific skin concerns such as dryness, wrinkles, or discoloration.
  • Sun protection factor (SPF) — SPF measures how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays (the kind that cause sunburn). A higher SPF offers more protection. Daily use is key to preventing premature aging and skin cancer.
  • Topical peptides — Topical peptides are short chains of amino acids that can help boost collagen, reduce signs of aging, and support skin healing. They’re often found in anti-aging products.
  • Vitamin B — B vitamins support healthy skin and help fight conditions like acne, dryness, and sun damage. You can get them through your diet, supplements, or skin care products.
  • Vitamin C — Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps with collagen production, brightens skin, fades dark spots, and protects against environmental damage. It’s found in many serums and creams and is also essential in your diet.

Still unsure about a term or which products are right for you? Talk to a dermatologist. If you’re starting a new skin care routine or trying a treatment for the first time, it’s always smart to get expert advice.

The UPMC Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Health Center offers trusted guidance and cutting-edge treatments to help you look and feel your best. For more information about the services we offer, please visit our website.

American Academy of Dermatology Association, Microdermabrasion, FAQs. Link

American Academy of Dermatology Association, Retinoid or Retinol? Link

American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, Chemical Peels. Link

American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, Neuromodulators for Aging Skin. Link

American Society of Plastic Surgeons, Dermal Fillers. Link

American Society of Plastic Surgeons, Microdermabrasion. Link

American Society of Plastic Surgeons, What Is Hyaluronic Acid? Link

CeraVe, Understanding the Differences Between AHAs and BHAs. Link

Nur Izzah Md Fadilah, Nurul Aqilah Shahabudin, Raniya Adiba Mohd Razif, et al, Journal of Tissue Engineering, Discovery of Bioactive Peptides as Therapeutic Agents for Skin Wound Repair. Link

Sekyoo Jeong, Seokjeong Yoon, Sungwoo Kim, et al, International Journal of Molecular Sciences, Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression. Link

Crystal Martin, The New York Times, Exfoliation Tips for the Best Skin Ever. Link

Melika Motamedi, Ahmad Chehade, Ravina Sanghera, and Parbeer Grewal, Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, A Clinician's Guide to Topical Retinoids. Link

National Library of Medicine, Benzoyl Peroxide Topical. Link

Juliet M. Pullar, Anitra C. Carr, and Margreet C. M. Vissers, Nutrients, The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Link

Žane Temova Rakuša, Anja Šenk, and Robert Roškar, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Content and Stability of B Complex Vitamins in Commercial Cosmetic Products.

U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Alpha Hydroxy Acids. Link

U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Beta Hydroxy Acids. Link

U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Link

About Dermatology

The UPMC Department of Dermatology diagnoses, treats, and manages numerous hair, skin, and nail conditions and diseases. We care for common and uncommon conditions, and our treatments include both surgical and nonsurgical options. We operate several specialty centers for various conditions. The UPMC Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Health Center is a comprehensive dermatologic laser facility, offering a full range of cosmetic services and procedures. With UPMC Hillman Cancer Center, we offer a Skin Cancer Program that provides complete care from screenings, diagnosis, treatment, and beyond. Find a dermatology provider near you.